GOOD PRACTICES WITH EPOXY RESIN RESEARCH
By far the best epoxy resin in the world, with a high bio content and ease of use, Resin Research is the first choice among marine manufacturers. The following is the best working method that SEABASE LTD, after years of experience as the sole European supplier of Resin Research, has developed for use on surfboards. Please keep the safety data sheets securely.
- Use Resina Research 2000CE Ultra or Kwik Kick Ultra for laminating surfboards. Each of the two is combined with a hardener, respectively hardener 2100F and hardener Kwik Kick. To install plugs, boxes, boxes and other tools that require resin thicknesses we recommend slow hardeners. Slow or Low hardeners cause drainage and may not cure completely before the required time, however, high resin concentrations can cause high temperatures (Exothermic Reaction). Kwick Kick resin reduces exotherm compared to 2000CE. For a more effective response, we supply, upon request, slower hardeners (2100S, 2100X) for mixing with Ultra Resina Research 2000CE epoxy to reduce exothermic (heat output) when using large quantities in small areas. Ask for further advice if you are unsure.
- Blanks or surfaces must be completely free of grease and dust and completely dry when painted or sealed. Use antistatic cloths or clean surfaces with denatured alcohol. Always make sure any smooth surface is sanded with coarse paper to aid inter-layer adhesion.
- The working room temperature should ideally be 24 degrees Celsius (24º C) or more.
- Blanks should be at room temperature for 24 hours or more prior to glazing to avoid gassing.
- The resin and hardener must be stored at room temperature 24 hours before starting. It is possible to heat the resin to 25 ° C before adding the hardener (component B). If part A is cold and thick, unscrew the lid and heat component A, the epoxy resin, in a microwave for up to 20 seconds at a time (less if the content is small). Add component B (NEVER heat up) to the resin. Be careful: if it is too hot it may react more quickly. Then let it rest at room temperature for the time necessary to lower the internal temperature to around 25 ° C.
IMPORTANT. If the resin appears unusually thick, dense or crystallized, the resin is still perfectly usable after heat treatment. See the article on how to recover the crystallized resin.
- Do not add additive F during lamination (i.e. with glass fiber). There is no need. Add 0.5-1% additive F (5-10 ml per liter) ONLY to the resin (PART A), mix before mixing it with the hardener (PART B). This additive prevents annoying fisheyes and facilitates sanding. To be used in all layers to facilitate the chemical alliance between the different layers. It may be necessary to experiment before achieving perfect adhesion. Do not use Additive F in any other epoxy - it is formulated for Resin Research epoxy only. (Seriously)
- If you want to add pigmented colors, use a fully compatible pigment or a coloring paste in a suitable vehicle. Add the pigment to Part A in proportions recommended by the pigment manufacturer. Do not use polyester pigments in epoxy resin. This added volume through pigments to Part A will need to be taken into account. Then prepare the hardener before adding the pigment. An error on the mix ratio can cause incomplete hardening.
- Measure two parts Resin to one part Hardener (excluding additive F) ie (2: 1) by volume. Use two separate plastic containers and keep the two separate.
- Mix the two products in a new container by mixing with a flat stick for at least one minute. Scrape the sides of the mixing container. Be sweet while mixing to avoid introducing air into the mix.
- Leave to rest for two minutes to facilitate the release of air and to facilitate the hardening process.
- Distribute all the contents evenly and quickly without leaving the mix in the container, to avoid overheating and immediate hardening, using exactly the techniques that would be used for polyester resin. A hard plastic squeegee is probably better than the squeegee you normally use for polyester. During lamination do not extract too much resin but aim for a resin / glass fiber balance, if possible 50/50.
- The resin should remain usable for 18-20 minutes at 25ºC.
- The card can be rotated after 2 - 5 hours, depending on the temperature and humidity. If the laminate is still slightly tacky, use duct tape under the surface before turning it over.
- A laminated surfboard reaches full cure after 18 hours at elevated temperatures or after a week at room temperature. Apply the next resin layer within 12-18 hours to ensure a chemical and physical bond. If the resin has completely hardened, it may repel the next layer due to a lack of physical bond.
- Sand within 24 hours from the last coat.
- Polish or pass Speed coat within 24 hours from the last coat.
- Let'go surfing!
These instructions are based on the experiences of Seabase laboratories, but may not be correct under different conditions. We strongly recommend that you adapt these instructions to your conditions and circumstances.